видео-инструкция по монтажу своими руками, из чего построить лучше, цена, фото

Проектируя жилой дом, многие соотечественники задаются вопросом,как построить цоколь, и насколько оправдано такое строительство?По статистике наличие цоколя не является причиной для существенного удорожания строительного объекта. С другой стороны, наличие такого этажа сделает эксплуатацию дома более комфортной и эффективной.

Итак, как и из чего строить цоколь самостоятельно?

Строим цокольный этаж своими руками из доступных материалов

Целесообразность строительства

Вид изнутри

Строительство дома с цокольным этажом считается экономичным, независимо от назначения объекта. По сути, цоколь – это малозаглубленный подвал. С другой стороны цокольный этаж, в отличие от обычного подвала, более универсален в плане эксплуатации.

В соответствии с современными строительными стандартами, высота потолка должна составлять не менее 2,5 метров. Поэтому применить такое помещение можно в качестве погреба, подвала или подсобки. Известны случаи, когда в таких помещениях обустраиваются комфортные жилые комнаты, которые по уровню удобства эксплуатации ничем не уступают комнатам, расположенным на первом этаже.

Подытоживая тему необходимости цоколя, отметим то, что решившись на такое строительство, вы можете рассчитывать на существенное увеличение показателей теплоизоляции дома.

Разновидности цоколя

Типы цоколя (схема в разрезе)

Перед тем как решить, из чего строим цокольный этаж своими руками, нужно определиться с типом конструкции.

В настоящее время повсеместно применяется 3 категории цоколя:

• конструкция в одной плоскости с фундаментом и стеной;
• выступающая конструкция;
• западающая конструкция.

Несмотря на то, что все три разновидности выполняют сходные функции, они отличаются рядом эксплуатационных особенностей, которые необходимо предусмотреть еще на этапе проектирования.

Конструкция западающего типа

Западающий цоколь получил наибольшее применение и считается традиционным для малоэтажного строительства. Надо понимать, что данная конструкция менее всего подвержена воздействию избыточной влажности, так как вода быстро стекает не задерживаясь. Но в этом случае необходимо позаботиться о качественной гидроизоляции цоколя, чтобы фундамент и прилегающие стены были сухими.

На фото- выступающий цоколь

Строительство выступающего цоколя оправдано в том случае, если толщина стен в доме небольшая. В результате цоколь поспособствует увеличению теплоизоляционных свойств постройки.Именно поэтому такое решение целесообразно,если в помещении цокольного этажа будут обустроены жилые комнаты.

Конструкция в одной плоскости -это оптимальное решение, если жилой дом строится с большим подвалом. Обустройство заглубленного цоколя допускается на грунтах с нормальным уровнем влажности и с глубоким залеганием грунтовых вод.

Приступаем к строительству

Для начала определимся с толщиной стен. В том случае,если постройка располагается на плотном грунте, стены цоколя достаточно сделать в толщину стен основной постройки.

Если строительство проводится на грунтах с повышенным содержанием песка или глины, толщина стен цоколя должна на 20-30 см превышать толщину несущих стен здания. При постройке деревянных зданий, цоколь можно построить из бетонных полнотелых блоков. Такое решение позволит сэкономить время и снизить себестоимость строительства.

Теперь несколько слов о высоте цокольного этажа. При постройке современных зданий высота цоколя увеличивается по требованию заказчика. Для того чтобы цокольный этаж сделать полноценным первым этажом, выкапывается более глубокий котлован, чем это предусмотрено нормами строительства обычного дома.

Глубину цоколя определяют не только пожелания заказчика, но и ряд параметров, среди которых, например, содержание грунтовых вод. В том случае, если грунтовая вода содержится в почве на расстоянии одного метра от поверхности в течение всего года, углублять цоколь можно не более чем на 1 метр.

Если есть необходимость в большем заглублении можно применить насыпку сухой почвы. В итоге появляется возможность повысить уровень грунта и, как следствие, получить возможность увеличить внутреннее пространство в цокольном этаже. Впрочем, такое решение обернется дополнительными затратами.

Копаем и обустраиваем котлован

Для копки котлована потребуется экскаватор и хотя бы одна машина под вывоз грунта. Ведь даже небольшой загородный дом с длиной стен в 10-15 метров потребует глубины котлована не менее 2 метров.

Котлован

Несмотря на применение экскаватора, потребуется физическая сила для обработки углов ямы и выравнивания поверхности дна.

Важно: Нужно быть готовым к тому, что при выемке грунта на дне ямы буде скопление воды.
Это не страшно, так как в течение суток вода уйдет.
Если воды много, процесс можно ускорить, применив насос.

Делаем подушку

Подушка с переходом в фундамент

На дне котлована потребуется обустроить бетонную подушку:

• для этого делаем разметку с обозначением размеров дома;
• на месте несущих стен роем траншеи глубиной не менее 40 см и шириной на 20 см больше, чем предполагаемая толщина стен;
• на дно траншеи выстилаем слой песка толщиной 5-10 см;
• в траншее делаем опалубку из досок или из ламинированной фанеры с тем расчетом, чтобы эта конструкция была на 10 см выше поверхности грунта;
• внутри опалубки укладываем обвязку из арматурных прутьев;
• далее готовим бетон из расчёта 3 части цемента М400, 4 части сеяного песка и 3 части мелкого щебня;
• тщательно вымешенный бетон заливаем в опалубку и разравниваем;
• к последующим строительным работам можно приступать примерно через 2 недели, ровно столько времени требуется для того чтобы бетон высох.

Делаем гидроизоляцию

На фото- гидроизоляция, выполненная рулонными материалами

Гидроизоляция необходима для того чтобы защитить стены цоколя от избыточной влажности и, как следствие, от постепенного разрушения.

Бетонная подушка изолируется битумной мастикой и рулонными гидроизоляционными материалами такими,например, как «Гидроизол». Кроме того, с внешней части дома обустраиваем бетонную отмостку по всему периметру стен. Отмостка исключит проникновение сточной воды к фундаменту и к цокольной кладке.

Делаем фундамент

Схема фундамента в доме с бассейном

Сократить сроки выполнения строительных работ позволяет применение крупногабаритных фундаментных блоков. Такие блоки изготавливаются в промышленных условиях и цена их высока. Если вы хотите сэкономить деньги и об экономии времени не задумываетесь,можно сделать фундамент своими руками.

Самостоятельное изготовление фундамента во многом схоже со строительством бетонной подушки. Но есть одно отличие – монолитный ленточный фундамент проходит не только по периметру внешних стен, но и под внутренними перегородками.

Для устройства фундамента также делается опалубка с внутренней обвязкой из арматурных прутьев. Внутрь опалубки заливается бетон. Бетон можно заливать слоями, но с перерывом не более суток, чтобы конструкция получилась монолитной. Приступать к сооружению цоколя можно через две недели, то есть тогда, когда фундамент полностью схватится и высохнет.

Строим стены цоколя

Схема устройства фундамента, переходящего в стену

Строительство цокольного этажа можно выполнить из готовых фундаментных блоков. Такие стройматериалы, из-за крупных габаритов,предполагают,необходимость в применении спецтехники, что сказывается увеличением себестоимости строительства. Блоки фиксируются на месте цементно-песчаным раствором.

Важно:В процессе строительства цокольного этажа не следует забывать о строительстве вентиляционной системы.
С технологией строительства систем естественной и принудительной вентиляции вы сможете ознакомиться в соответствующих статьях на нашем портале.

Инструкция строительства верхней половины цокольного этажа допускает применение силикатного кирпича. Использование такого стройматериала не предусматривает использование спецтехники.

Кладка обустраивается на цементный раствор. Кирпич выкладываем как можно ровнее, для того чтобы впоследствии было проще его оштукатурить. В итоге кладка должна быть выше уровня земли примерно на метр. Поверх кладки делаем опалубку и заливаем железобетонный пояс, который упрочнит всю конструкцию.

Делаем перекрытие первого этажа

Перекрытие первого этажа

Перекрытие первого этажа – это сложная инженерная конструкция,прочности которой должно быть достаточно для безопасной эксплуатации здания. Для того чтобы гарантировать безопасность и эффективность использования объекта, перекрытия рекомендуется строить с применением готовых железобетонных плит.

Впрочем, плиту перекрытия можно изготовить самостоятельно.

Делается это следующим образом:

• В помещении цокольного этажа строим железобетонные колонны,верхняя часть которых должна выходить на предполагаемый уровень перекрытия. Чтобы исключить вероятность обрушения перекрытия, колонны должны быть на расстоянии около 3-4 метров друг от друга.
• Поверху колонн и стен обустраивается дощатая опалубка, поверх которой делается арматурная обвязка. Обвязку скрепляем с арматурой,применённой при возведении колонн.
• Далее, в соответствии с ранее описанной технологией, изготавливается бетон, который заливаем в опалубку.

• По мере просыхания, покрытие тщательно выравнивается и разглаживается. От того, насколько ровной будет поверхность покрытия, зависит простота обустройства пола на первом этаже.

Вывод

Теперь вы знаете,как правильно строить цокольный этаж и можете приступить к выполнению поставленной задачи. Гарантировать успех при проведении строительных работ может ответственный подход и соответствие технологическим предписаниям. Для того чтобы упростить достижение оптимального результата, посмотрите видео в этой статье.

Отличная статья 0

90000 How to Convert a Basement 90001 90002 The one thing that most people want in their home is more space, and increasingly homeowners are looking to find this by converting and extending their cellar to create a basement storey beneath their existing property. 90003 90002 Unlike loft space at the top of the house, which lends itself best to creating additional bedrooms, a basement is located close to the main living areas and access, and as such has a more flexible range of uses. 90003 90006 What are the Options if you Want a Basement? 90007 90002 If you want to create (or make use of) space below you home, there are three main routes: 90003 90010 90011 Creating a basement as part of a new build 90012 90011 Renovating an existing basement or cellar 90012 90011 Creating a new basement in an existing home, either directly underneath, or by extending out into the garden, front or side of the house.90012 90017 90002 This article will deal with options 2 and 3 although some of the advice will apply to those creating a basement as part of a new build too. 90003 90006 Top Tips for Converting a Basement 90007 90002 90003 90006 What Can I Use my Basement For? 90007 90002 A basement is the ideal location for additional family living space, such as a playroom or home entertainment room. It is also a great place to relocate the utility room, boiler and storage, freeing up more valuable above-ground space.90003 90002 Alternatively, a basement can have its own external entrance and provide a self-contained unit, ideal for use as a home office or annexe. If you want the basement to become an independent separate dwelling (perhaps to sell on), you need express consent. 90003 90006 Is a Basement Conversion Worth it Financially? 90007 90002 Whether a cellar conversion is financially viable will depend on the cost of the work relative to local property values. It almost always makes financial sense to add lower ground floor space in high-value areas, such as central London and other sought-after urban centres.Elsewhere the potential to add value needs more careful analysis. Estate agents should be able to give you an indication of how much space is worth per square metre in your area. 90003 90002 Bear in mind that good-quality, well-lit basement living space with access directly onto the back garden will be worth considerably more than dark, converted cellar space with compromised headroom. It is also important to take into account the ceiling value for the location: remember, most suburban areas, and especially estates, have a maximum value that is very difficult to exceed no matter what improvements you make.90003 90002 If you are weighing up adding a loft conversion against converting a basement, it pays to know that a straightforward cellar conversion costs about the same, but creating a basement from scratch is almost twice the amount per m². However, you may be able to create more useable floorspace with a basement than a loft conversion. 90003 90006 Do I Need Planning Permission to Convert my Cellar? 90007 90002 Converting an existing cellar beneath a dwelling from a storage area to habitable space does not require planning permission.This will be covered by your home’s Permitted Development (unless you are in a Conservation Area or special designated area, or your home is Listed). 90003 90002 Reducing the floor level of a cellar to improve the ceiling height is, however, treated as an extension and so may need planning permission. Under certain circumstances, however, modest extensions and alterations can be undertaken without the need to make a planning application: for more information visit www.planningportal.gov.uk. 90003 90002 Planning policy on basements varies but it is very difficult for a local authority to find reasonable grounds for refusal, especially if the work does not significantly alter the building’s appearance.Recent high-profile cases of people extending their basements several storeys, creating so-called iceberg basements, means the planning policy on basements is currently under review. 90003 90006 Building Regulations and Basements 90007 90002 The creation of a new habitable basement will require Building Regulations approval regardless of whether it involves a change of use of an existing cellar, or the creation of a new or larger basement through excavation. The Building Regulations are statutory minimum construction standards that ensure buildings are safe, hygienic and energy efficient.The renovation of an existing habitable basement, or the repair of a cellar that does not involve a change of use, i.e. from storage to storage, is excluded from the Building Regulations. 90003 90002 For guidance on meeting the Building Regulations, get a copy of the Approved Document — Basements for Dwellings, which includes all of the relevant regulations. 90003 90002 It is best to make a Full Plans Application for a cellar conversion, rather than to follow the Building Notice procedure, as this allows all design details to be resolved in advance of the work.90003 90002 90003 (Image credit: The London Basement Company) 90002 90057 The 18m² cellar of this terraced house has been converted and extended into a spacious 55m² basement, to include a family / TV room, study, utility and shower room. The work was carried out by 90058 90057 The London Basement Company 90058 90003 90006 Party Wall Act 90007 90002 If the proposed works affect a Party Wall — e.g. if beams are to bear onto a Party Wall; the wall is to be extended, altered, underpinned; or if excavations are to be carried out near to a Party Wall — the owners and leaseholders of both the building within which the proposed basement works are to take place and those of adjoining properties must be informed.The relevant legislation is the Party Wall etc. Act 1996. Log on to www.communities.gov.uk for more information. 90003 90002 Specialist basement contractors offering a design and build service will handle planning, Building Regulations approval and any Party Wall agreements as part of their service. 90003 90006 How Long Will the Conversion Take? 90007 90002 A simple 90071 cellar conversion 90072 can be completed in a matter of weeks. Converting a single-room cellar using a membrane lining system can take just two or three weeks, including digging out the sump and fitting the pumping system.90003 90002 90071 Converting and extending 90072 the cellar beneath an entire house, involving underpinning of the existing structure, is likely to take several months. 90003 90002 You can read more about the process of converting a basement here. 90003 90002 If there is access directly onto the garden or highway for the removal of soil and your existing ground floor is suspended timber, you can probably continue living in your home whilst work is under way. If the ground floor has to be removed and rebuilt because it is concrete, and all of the spoil has to be carried through the house, you will almost certainly have to move out.90003 90006 How Much Does a Basement Conversion Cost? 90007 90002 Providing there is adequate headroom, turning an existing cellar into extra living space would cost around the same as for a simple loft conversion, at around £ 1,000-1,500 / m². It is only when you have to start lowering the floor level to increase headroom, involving digging out the ground beneath the house and underpinning the foundations, that the work starts to get expensive at £ 2,000-4,000 / m². 90003 90010 90011 Conversion of existing cellar — £ 1,150- £ 1,450 / m² 90012 90011 Lowering floor level and underpinning in existing cellar — £ 1,500-2,000 / m² 90012 90011 Digging new basement space and underpinning — £ 2,000-3,000 / m² 90012 90011 Digging new basement space beneath the garden — £ 1,750-2,250m / ² 90012 90011 Creating a lightwell / external access — £ 5,500- £ 9,500 90012 90011 Engineers fees — £ 1,000- £ 1,500 90012 90011 Planning application (where required) — £ 206 ( England) 90012 90011 Building Regulations application — £ 750 upwards 90012 90011 Party Wall surveys (where required) — £ 700 per neighbour upwards 90012 90011 VAT — 20% (added to the cost of all work by a VAT-registered contractor and all fees by VAT-registered consultant) 90012 90017 90002 Factors that add to these costs: 90003 90010 90011 The need to divert drains beneath your house 90012 90011 Your home has solid concrete rather than timber subfloors 90012 90011 Your home sits on difficult ground condition s such as clay, made-up ground, sand or marsh 90012 90011 The local water table is high, necessitating constant pumping 90012 90011 Access to the site is poor 90012 90017 90006 Waterproofing Your Cellar 90007 90002 If you are converting an existing space, you will need to make sure it is dry.90003 90002 Waterproofing below ground level is often referred to as ‘tanking’ — the application of a layer of waterproof material directly to the structure. This is usually a cementitious waterproof render system on the walls, typically applied in several layers, linked to a waterproof screed on the floor. Tanking can also involve a sheet membrane, asphalt or other liquid-applied waterproofing material. 90003 90002 Tanking is also required to withstand the external water pressure around the cellar (hydrostatic pressure).The pressure from the water table around a basement can be enormous and unless the tanking is very securely fixed to the substrate, it can fail. Hydrostatic pressure will force water through the tiniest fault very rapidly and once a leak occurs it can be very difficult to isolate and repair. 90003 90002 Cavity drain membranes are an alternative. The membranes are used to create an inner waterproof structure in the basement or cellar, behind which is a cavity (created by the membranes studded profile) that is fully drained, so any tiny leaks in the outer structure are diverted harmlessly away via a drain.By constantly draining away any small leaks there is never any water pressure against the inner structure. Several reports consider cavity membranes to be the most reliable way to waterproof a basement. 90003 90002 90071 NOTE: 90072 Whatever system you use, remember not to put screws through the waterproofing system when hanging shelves and pictures. 90003 90002 90071 Useful contacts: 90072 90003 .90000 Building better basements: how to insulate your basement properly 90001 90002 The most common practices currently employed for finishing basement interiors as living space rarely account for the impacts that come with the added moisture load below grade, or the amount of heat that will be lost to the ground. 90003 90002 Existing basements are typically under-insulated or not insulated at all, and if they are, they almost always trap moisture within wall assemblies.This leads to condensation, mold growth and rotting wall structures. 90003 90002 The following basement insulation techniques listed here are designed to offer the most sensible and durable options for interior insulation, exterior insulation, or ideally, a combination of both. 90003 90002 These assemblies have been designed to prevent moisture infiltration over the service life of a building, along with allowing the original moisture contained in building materials to escape without causing damage.90003 90002 Different types of insulation are included at different points in wall assemblies. For details and characteristics of different materials, see our page on choosing insulation. 90003 90012 90013 90014 90015 90016 90017 90014 90015 90002 CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE 90003 90022 90016 90017 90025 90026 90002 90028 Insulation on the exterior and interior, from outside to inside: 90029 90003 90031 90032 fiber cement board and parging above grade 90033 90032 3 «of mineral wool or EPS (expanded polystyrene).3 «is better, 2» will suffice 90033 90032 drainage mat 90033 90032 damp proofing spray on exterior concrete wall 90033 90032 2 «mineral wool board or EPS against interior concrete wall 90033 90032 2×4 stud wall with mineral wool batts in cavities 90033 90032 drywall with latex paint as vapour retarder. 90033 90046 90002 90003 90012 90013 90014 90015 90016 90017 90014 90015 90002 CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE 90003 90022 90016 90017 90025 90026 90002 90028 Interior insulation only: 90029 90003 90031 90032 mineral wool board or EPS as thermal break against concrete wall 90033 90032 2×4 stud wall with mineral wool batts in cavities 90033 90032 drywall with latex paint as vapour retarder.90033 90046 90002 90077 Note: Not having proper exterior moisture protection for this wall assembly will mean moisture will migrate inwards. Mineral wool is not harmed by moisture, but there may be additional heating and coolling loads inccured by having higher relative humidity levels. Basement dehumidifiers can help keep keep humidity levels manageable. Please see our page on retrofitting existing basements. 90078 90003 90002 90003 90012 90013 90014 90015 90016 90017 90014 90015 90002 CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE 90003 90022 90016 90017 90025 90026 90002 90028 Exterior insulation only: 90029 90003 90031 90032 fiber cement board and parging above grade 90033 90032 4 inches EPS 90033 90032 drainage matt 90033 90032 bituminous damp proofing.90033 90046 90111 Best practices for new basement construction: 90112 90002 Ideal performance and durability is achieved by insulating both the interior and exterior of foundation walls. This technique can increase the thermal performance of basements, reducing heat loss and operating costs. It also helps reduce the chance of interior moisture issues by raising the temperature of the first interior condensing surface, the concrete. 90003 90002 Below is a thermal image of the basement descibed above with insulation on both sides.The effective R value of this wall amounts to R40. Three inches of EPS under the slab amounts to R12.6, There is a solid financial argument that can be made for increasing that, particularly with the inclusion of radiant in-floor heat. 90003 90012 90013 90014 90015 90016 90017 90014 90015 90002 Thermal image of basement insulation and heat loss © Ecohome 90003 90022 90016 90017 90025 90026 90002 Exterior basement insulation is less common, probably due to the fact that it can be more expensive.And there are certainly less cases where insulation is installed on both sides. By insulating the exterior of basement walls we consume less interior space and prevent exposing walls to the seasonal freeze / thaw cycle known as ‘thermal shock’ that can cause the cracking of foundations. 90003 90002 Insulating basement interiors rather than exteriors can be the cheaper option were you to choose just one, particularly if they are intended to be finished living space. It can also more easily address thermal bridging issues at the tops of walls, as well as the junction between footings and foundation walls.90003 90002 As there is little consensus on basement design and materials used or the optimum level thermal performance, we fully expect there to be those that find this to be extreme and unnecessary in both durability and performance. We believe this stems from the fact that basements are currently dank and moldy, chronically under-insulated, and that we are simply accustomed paying the high cost of heating. 90003 90002 Ecohome promotes as much as possible, a philosophy of heat retention rather than heat generation.Additional costs for insulation are often negated by monthly savings, and a well designed and insulated basement will have a much longer service life without repair. 90003 90002 One of the most commonly overlooked benefits of extreme insulation in homes is heat security, as extreme weather events in cold months routinely drive residents from their homes for lack of power and heat. Homes that are better situated to retain heat can offer greater comfort for a longer period of time in such situations.90003 90142 Issues and solutions for all basement wall assemblies: 90143 90002 90003 90012 90013 90014 90015 90016 90017 90014 90015 90002 EPS spacer on bottom of framed basement walls © floodsill.com 90003 90022 90016 90017 90025 90026 90002 90028 Spacers below bottom plates 90029: Shimming up bottom plates with backer rods or chunks of foam can be an added measure of durability in the event of any interior flooding, by allowing water to pass under walls. 90003 90002 Read all about how to Stop Basements Flooding — Flood Prevention, Pumps & Alarms here 90166 90003 90002 90028 Slab floors: 90029 A large portion of heat is lost to poorly insulated basements, including below slab floors.The optimum levels of insulation below slabs varies by region and climate, but also by individual building site and soil conditions. 90003 90002 To save both money and energy, we recommend a minimum of R20 under slabs in most of Canada, at least along the Canadian / US border where most of Canadians live. Increased levels are recommended for more northern regions. Please see our pages on sub-slab insulation for more details. 90003 90012 90013 90014 90015 90016 90017 90014 90015 90002 Roxul mineral wool exterior foundation insulation © Roxul 90003 90022 90016 90017 90025 90026 90002 90028 Exterior EPS or mineral wool: 90029 Neither are harmed by moisture.With care they can be largely held in place against exterior walls with backfilling below grade, and fixed above grade with fiber cement board attached through to foundation walls. 90003 90002 90028 Drainage: 90029 Regardless of the location or amount of insulation, foundation walls should be protected from ground water, which should be directed to properly sloped and perforated drainage tiles. Any backfill against walls should drain easily, and weeping tile drains should be covered with a geotextile membrane to prevent clogging.The inclusion of a clean-out junction in weeping tiles can allow for easy long term maintenance. 90003 90012 90013 90014 90015 90016 90017 90014 90015 90002 Foundation perimeter surface drain © Ecohome 90003 90022 90016 90017 90025 90026 90002 A surface drain can be a valuable added measure of protection, as seen above on the interior and exterior insulation diagram. 90003 90002 This is highly recommended for metal roofs in particular as they notoriously shed eaves troughs as they shed snow.In the absence of eaves troughs (by choice or otherwise), roof water ends up at the perimeter of foundation walls. 90003 90012 90013 90014 90015 90016 90017 90014 90015 90002 Avoid wood to concrete connections in foundations © Ecohome 90003 90022 90016 90017 90025 90026 90002 90028 Avoid wood-to-concrete connections: 90029 Concrete foundations take five years to fully dry, and that is only if they are completely separated by exterior waterproof barriers from ground moisture and water.Without breaking the connection from dirt to porous concrete, foundation walls will never dry, and continue to wick moisture. 90003 90002 It is common practice to embed wood directly into concrete to frame window and door openings. Such practices put framing members at risk of rotting. Even with basements completely sealed at the exterior, wood will soak up all the available moisture in concrete. 90003 90012 90013 90014 90015 90016 90017 90014 90015 90002 Capillary break between footing and foundation © Delta 90003 90022 90016 90017 90025 90026 90002 90028 Capillary break: 90029 Footings are not protected from moisture at the bottom, the inclusion of a capillary break between footings and foundations prevents moisture from wicking into walls.There are dedicated membranes for this application, but 6 mil polyethylene will do the job as well, probably more affordably. 90003 90002 90028 Insulated rim joists: 90029 This is a very tricky location to successfully insulate and air seal. Spray polyurethane foam (SPUF) is one of the preferred solutions to this trouble spot. When insulating basement interiors, SPUF can be installed to meet interior wall insulation, breaking the thermal bridge of floor sill plates. 90003 90002 Another effective technique can be insetting floor joists from the exterior of the concrete to allow continuous insulation of rim joists on the exterior.90003 90002 90028 Stud wall and batt insulation: 90029 Again, we recommend mineral wool for its higher R value, recycled content, and ability to withstand moisture. However, the risk of moisture damage is much lower at the stud wall compared to against the concrete, so mineral wool could be safely substituted with fiberglass batts if desired, particularly in areas of low flood risk. 90003 90012 90013 90014 90015 90016 90017 90014 90015 90002 Liquid applied vapour barrier primer © Benjamin Moore 90003 90022 90016 90017 90025 90026 90002 90028 Interior gypsum board: 90029 Latex paint (or vapour retarder primer) is recomended as an interior vapour control layer below grade.It is most important to not include a polyethylene vapour barrier or other vapour impermeable materials that prevent walls from drying. 90003 90002 6 mil poly vapour barriers are an above grade solution intended to allow walls to dry to the exterior, that is impossible below grade. The only drying that will take place below grade will be inwards. 90003 90002 Building scientists agree that polyethylene vapour barriers on the inside of basement walls dooms them to failure. The source of moisture we need to protect against is exterior ground and concrete, not interior relative humidity.90003 90111 For help in 90028 choosing from different types of panel insulation see here 90029 and for a 90028 guide all about insulating exterior walls correctly from the outside, see here 90029 — from the EcoHome 90028 Green Building Guides 90029 90112 90002 Further reading: 90003 .90000 Is a Basement Included in the Square Footage of a Home? 90001 90002 This is the tale of two basements in otherwise comparable houses. One is a finished basement with a den, bedroom, and full bathroom. The other basement has some Sheetrock, an exposed toilet, and a painted floor. 90003 90002 The listing for the first house reflects the basement and number of bedrooms, including the one in the basement space, in its total square footage and price. 90003 90002 The second house only includes the square footage of the main floors and does not count a 200-square-foot bedroom in the basement.So, which listing correctly shows the square footage for a basement? The short answer is: both. 90003 90008 Does a basement count toward overall square footage? 90009 90002 As a general rule of thumb, listing agents and appraisers do not count a finished basement toward the overall square footage, especially if the basement is completely 90011 below grade- 90012 a term that means below ground level. 90003 90002 Whether an appraiser includes basement living space ultimately depends on which state you live in.Your local county assessor’s office determines whether appraisers can count the square footage, finished or unfinished, as part of what’s known as the «gross living area.» 90003 90008 Walk-out basements and square footage 90009 90002 For the states that do allow listings to include a basement in the square footage of the overall living space, there must be an egress and ingress. 90003 90002 One reason for this rule is that you can not have a legal bedroom in a basement area without fire evacuation access separate from the rest of the house.90003 90002 If the above-ground floor is on fire, the room in the basement must provide at least window access to the outside. 90003 90002 This means a door you can walk out of to yard level on one side of the basement, says 90025 Sharon Chambers-Gordon 90026, 90025 90026 a real estate agent with Windermere Professional Partners in Gig Harbor, WA. 90003 90002 This is also known as a walk-out basement, and the square footage is calculated based on how much of the basement is above grade. 90003 90008 How square footage affects your mortgage 90009 90002 The overall square footage of real estate factors into an appraisal and, therefore, the financing of a house.Your appraiser must generally appraise the house for the sales price, or higher, in order for the lender to provide the funds. 90003 90002 Here’s what mortgage giant Fannie Mae has to say on the basement matter: «Only finished above-grade areas can be used in calculating and reporting of above-grade room count and square footage for the living space. Fannie Mae considers a level to be below grade if any portion of it is below grade, regardless of the quality of its finish or the window area of ​​any room.»90003 90008 How finished basement square footage affects your home value 90009 90002 Unlike commercial real estate, homes are generally not priced strictly on square footage. So whether a basement is included in square footage or not, a nicely finished basement generally adds to the value of a home, says 90025 Carrie Abfall 90026, a real estate agent with Re / Max Real Estate Professionals in Columbus, IN. 90003 90002 While the price per square foot for a swanky basement is not typically as high as main-level upgrades, an appraiser or potential buyer will certainly appraise the home’s value as higher with the additional living space of a basement.This is true whether the basement is a walk-out or below ground. 90003 90002 If the home with the finished basement wows a buyer, it may fetch a higher price, says real estate agent 90025 Randy Elgin 90026 with Keller Williams Realty in San Antonio, TX. 90003 90002 This is true even if the square footage is not included in the listing. Elgin advises that you offer what you think is reasonable, based on the home’s gross living area plus some fair amount for the unfinished or finished basement.90003 90002 Focus on the usable space and how much value you will gain from it. And include an appraisal contingency in the offer. That way, you can back out if the appraiser places a lower value on the home than you expected. 90003 .90000 Building Foundations: A Step-By-Step Guide 90001 90002 Building foundations is the crucial starting point when it comes to building a house. Your foundations will safely distribute the weight of your new home and prevent the subsoil from spreading, avoiding an unequal settlement of the structure, which could lead to structural issues down the line. 90003 90002 Mistakes at this stage could prove costly so it’s vital to double check all measurements, mark them on the plans and make sure everyone is working from the same set of plans.Be prepared to be flexible if the excavation process reveals some surprising ground conditions (setting aside a healthy contingency budget is essential for this stage). 90003 90002 If you are not sure which foundation system to choose or what type of soil you’re dealing with, then make sure you take a look at our guide to foundation systems and soil types. 90003 90002 Then, whether you’re project managing, taking on some of the work yourself, or want to have an overview of what your builder is about to do, here is a step-by-step guide for laying out your building foundations.90003 90002 You will typically need: 90003 90012 90013 mesh reinforcement in the foundation concrete 90014 90013 compressible material for lining the trenches 90014 90013 a polythene slip membrane 90014 90013 cut metal pins to use as markers ready on site 90014 90013 several rakes and pairs of wellies (you’ll be surprised how many people turn up for work in trainers) 90014 90013 to be aware of any lead-in times. If the engineers have designed a foundation that requires reinforcement cages, these may have to be manufactured off site 90014 90013 to think ahead to getting the services into the house, so get some lengths of pipe or ducting to take through the concrete.90014 90027 90028 1. Start Building Foundations by Marking Out a Level Datum Point 90029 90002 90003 90032 Mark out a level datum point 90033 (Image credit: Homebuilding & Renovating) 90002 Whats is a datum point? 90003 90002 A datum point is a point of reference from which further measurements can be made. The point can be based on the finished floor level, an existing building or a benchmark. 90003 90002 First you will need a level datum point. If you are building an extension this is usually the finished floor level or damp-proof course (DPC) of the existing building.For new builds, this will be marked on the plan as a fixed point such as a manhole cover or a marker in the road or pavement. 90003 90002 The datum point is important: all your height measurements are relative to this point, so any errors could cause problems later on, particularly if there is a height restriction placed on the building. 90003 90028 2. Calculate Material to be Removed 90029 90002 90003 90032 Calculate how much material needs to be removed and cleared as a starting point for your foundations and oversite 90033 (Image credit: Homebuilding & Renovating) 90002 Next, calculate how much material needs to be removed from the site to end up back at finished floor level once all the layers of flooring materials (insulation, concrete, screed, etc) have gone down.Time taken with a site level at this stage will make things easier later on when the digger may not be able to reach any areas that have not been dug deep enough. 90003 90028 3. Use String Lines to Mark Out Your Building Foundations 90029 90002 90003 90032 Start marking out the walls, starting with one corner point 90033 (Image credit: Homebuilding & Renovating) 90002 Start marking out for the walls. Set up timber hurdles at the end of each wall, out of the way of where the digger will need to be.These carry the string lines that represent the wall faces of your building. Where space is limited, use corner pins instead and set up the hurdles after the concrete is in. 90003 90028 4. Mark Out the Trenches for Your Building Foundations 90029 90002 90003 90032 Use marker paint to mark out your footings 90033 (Image credit: Homebuilding & Renovating) 90002 Begin lining up your footings by referring to your datum point. When it comes to extensions, never assume an existing building is square; pick the side you need to be square to and set up a line, then square off that line.90003 90002 The easiest way to do this is using Pythagorus’s theorem (the square of the hypotenuse is equal to the sum of the square of the other two sides). If you measure the length of your first wall and then secure a tape measure at each end, by working out the length of the hypotenuse you can use both tapes to give you a third point exactly 90 ° to your first line. 90003 90002 Alternatively, most modern laser levels have a square function which does this for you. 90003 90028 5. Mark All Corners 90029 90002 90003 90032 Once you have two lines set up at 90 °, other measurements can be taken 90033 (Image credit: Homebuilding & Renovating) 90002 Once you have two lines set up at 90 °, all other measurements can be taken from this point, with all corners and junctions marked.A lot of digger drivers are quite happy for you to mark ‘centre of dig’ lines, but you may prefer to mark both sides of the trenches. 90003 90002 Check the width your walls and allow 150mm both sides, then use a string line as a guide to mark the trenches with marker paint. 90003 90028 6. Start Digging The Foundation Trenches 90029 90002 90003 90032 Digging the trenches can begin 90033 (Image credit: Homebuilding & Renovating) 90002 Now you’re ready to start digging. Have your site level set to the depth you need to dig and check it often.Ultimately it is down to the building control inspector to decide how far down you need to go; they will inspect at this stage and advise. 90003 90028 7. Introduce Depth Pegs and Pour 90029 90002 90003 90032 Introduce depth pegs in the trenches to show where you need to fill concrete to 90033 (Image credit: Homebuilding & Renovating) 90002 Once Building Control has visited, you are ready to pour the footings. You should place depth pegs in the trenches to show you how deep to fill, but you may find that marking the sides of the trenches with marker paint also works well, with a final onceover with the site level and a concrete rake to get them spot on — the more accurate you can be with your levels the easier (and cheaper) the next stage will be.90003 90002 Also make sure that ducts are installed for any pipes or cables that need to cross the trench below the concrete. 90003 90002 90003 90032 Begin pouring the footings using either a pump or labourers with barrows 90033 (Image credit: Homebuilding & Renovating) 90002 If your site is difficult to access, it may be worth considering a concrete pump. This can work out more cost-effective than a few bodies with barrows. 90003 90028 Keeping the Site Tidy When Building Foundations 90029 90002 Before you fire up the digger you’ll need to decide 90107 what’s going to happen to the spoil 90108.If it’s staying on site you may need to hire in a dumper so that it can be stored in a suitable place where it will not interfere with the build. 90003 90002 Otherwise, you’ll have to organise lorries to take it to a tip. The turnaround time, or distance to the tip, will dictate how many lorries are needed to maintain continuity on the dig. 90003 90002 You will also need to decide 90107 whether you’ll be able to load the concrete directly into the trenches or whether a pump will be needed 90108.If you do decide on a pump — always a good idea if more than three loads are anticipated — then it will need to be booked and the concrete suppliers advised so that their mix and turnaround time can be adjusted to facilitate a continuous pour. 90003 90028 Getting Lorries to Site 90029 90002 If the concrete is being directed from a lorry into the trench then you need to make sure that there is hardstanding and stable ground for it to park. 90003 90002 Most mixes can be ‘pulled’ around the trenches using rakes, but if the sides of the trenches are unstable this may cause collapses and unwanted contamination of the concrete.(Shuttering the trenches prior to pouring can aid in this instance.) 90003 90002 Lorries have extension ramps but these can usually only reach for around 4m at most. Unless the lorries can off-load at various convenient points around the building, then it’s best to use a pump. 90003 90028 Adding a Basement When Building Foundations 90029 90002 If your ground conditions appear difficult, you might do well to consider building a basement. If you are expecting to spend, say, £ 30,000 on getting out of the ground, then you are maybe halfway towards the cost of a basement and you may find that you are able to add considerably more value to the house than the additional cost of a basement build.90003 .